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Extrait d'Atelier: MaÎtre Joaillier - reviewed by Charlie Nose

EXTRAIT D'ATELIER's product campaign. Photo Credits: Romin Favre

Perfume and jewelry have so much in common. They are to adorn us, dress us and express us. Both accessories can make the collector addictive and let go of the bags. Both perfumes and jewelry can be strong, loud and ostentatious, or silent, discreet, skin-like.

You can wear a lot of jewelry and a lot of perfume. Or quite the opposite. Most jewelry houses enrich their offer by adding fragrances to jewelry, often inspired by a specific collection, jewel or precious metal.

Before the diamond and gold decorate a beautiful neck or wrist, however, the magic of bending and cutting takes place in a jewelry workshop. A mixture of art, craftsmanship and magic, translated into the fragrance by Chiara Ronzani from the Extrait d'Atelier brand. MaÎtre Joaillier, the Master Jeweler, was among the first three studio fragrances that she launched with the perfumer Claudia Scattolini in 2016. I'm taking you to his atelier today.

Photo Credits:CharlieNose

The place is bright and quiet. Tall and spacious. It lacks coziness. This is not what this is about. All shapes are cut with precision, all lines are rather straight. The smell of freshly cut metal is in the air. So sharp it cuts across the nostrils. They are aldehydes that swirl in the air like silver filings. They open up, the first few seconds. Rach, sniff!

Perfectly metallic and acidic, they dance in the air filled with ozone that portends a beautiful violet heart. It's basically a violet leaf, green, dry and fresh, so powder is pretty much out of the question. This violet moment is very pleasant. I remember him from Eau de Cartier and a bit from this year's Original Wood DSquared2. After a while, coniferous green joins the violet green. It's a balsam fir.

It adds a milligram of sweetness and quite a lot of flavor. It soothes the sharpness of the opening a bit, but the fragrance basically maintains its dynamic, cut vitality until the end. Incense appears for a split second. I can barely sense them, but it just seems to blend in nicely with the balsamic and woodiness of the lower part of the composition. It is certainly not incense served in Arabic.

Rather simple, cool, minimalist, like the entire Master Jeweler. The base is the afore-mentioned woodiness, which is also fresh, and it is covered with pure musk. In the jewelry workshop, the furniture is made of light plywood and thin aluminum, there is no point in looking for heavy dark wood cabinets.